Sewing machine



'V.'NAFTAL| ET AL. 1,931,447

' SEWING MACHINE Filed Aug. i6. 1932 4 sheets-sneu 1 ATTORNEY Oct. 17,1933.

v. NAi-TALI |=:r AL 1,931,447

SEWING MACHINE Filed Aug. 16 1932 4 shgets-sneet 2 7 amm;

MM' @ed ATTORNEY ct, 17, 1933. y v NAFTAL! ET AL 1,931,447 I SEWING'MACHINE v Filed Aug. 16,` 1932 4 sheets-sheen 3 Oct. 17, 1933. l vhNAf-'TALI ET AL 1,931,447

SEWING MACHINE Patented ct. 17, 193,3v

PATENT OFFICE I z 1,931,447 VSEWING MACHINE vValentine Naftali, HenryNaftali, and Rudolf Naftali, New York, N. Y.

Application August 16,1932. serial No. 629,000

27 Claims. (Cl. 112-171) The present invention relates to sewingmachines, preferably but not necessarilyN of the type wherein the needleis double pointedand has its eye located between the points, and whereinthe opposite ends of the needle Vare grasped alternately by the jaws ofopposed needle bars; such type of machine admirably lending itself foradaptation or modification' into a machine for sewing togetherfour-in-hand neckties and their linings, for example, whereby it ispossible and practical to rapidly make complete neckties known in the'trade as slip stitch neckties.

Other objects of the invention are to provide novel means'for feedingthe Work, novel means for pulling the loose end of the thread throughthe ywork at the -completionof each stitch, and novel means for ,moreespecially .adapting .the machine for supperting and holding atie andits lining in y position for sewing them together.

i 26 These and otherobjects of the invention being in view, the sameconsists of certain features of construction and combinations of parts-to be hereinafter described and then claimed-with reference to theaccompanying drawings illustrating a preferred embodiment of theinvention and wherein Fig. 1 is a side elevation, partly in section, ofa sewing machine according to the present invention; p

Fig. 2'is a detail transverse section on line 2 2, Fig. 1; j

Fig. 3 is a sectional elevation of the machine transversely of Fig. 1;

Fig. 4 is a detail sectional elevation of the work feeding mechanism;

Fig. 5 is a detail 'horizontal-section of parts of the work feedingmechanism;

Fig. 6 is a plan View of the machine to clearly show the traveling workvsupporting platform and concomitant parts; I

Fig. 7 is an enlarged plan view showing portions of Fig. 6 and theholding of a necktie and its lining in position;

Fig. 8 is a similar view to Fig. 7 without the tie and its liningandshowing the holding means raised from the work;

Fig. 9 is a detail transverse section, partly in elevation, through thework supporting platform and concomitant parts, the section being takenin the plane through which the needle operates;

Fig. 10 is a detail plan view of the throat plate through which theneedle passes;

Fig. 11 is a detail section, partly in elevation, of the upper needlebar and concomitant parts;

Fig. 12 is a sectional detail of the preferred onto the correspondingends of each needle bar REISSUED f means for holding and positioning oneend of the thread; f

Fig. 13 is an elevation taken at right angles to Fig. 12;

Figs. 14, 15, 16, 17 and 18 are detail views to 50 graphicallyillustrate the manner in which the machine operates in sewing the work;and

Fig. 19 is a plan of the tie as sewn to the lining similarly with thesame parts as shown in Fig. 7.

Referring more particularly to Figs. lnand 3,

they show a sewing machine comprisingI the parts e 10 on a stationaryframe, the upright 11 extending therefrom and the sewing machine arm 12.

JAs the machine illustrated is of the type-referred to, the same isprovided with a power shaft 13 mounted in a bearing of the upright 11, abelt pulley 14 on theshaft and a belt 15 on the pulley, which belt isdriven by an electric motor or otherwise,-`provided withwell known meansof control. The pulley 14 is provided at its inner face `with anenlarged disk portion 16 having l at its inner face a proled cam 17whichextends annularly around the disk.

Rollers 18, 18 are positioned at diametrically opposite points of thedisk 16 to bear on the surface of the cam 17, these rollers beingcarried at the rearward ends of oscillatory arms 19, 20. Each of thearms 19, 20 is mounted upon an in-v termediate pivot stud 21 extendingfrom the upright 11. An upper needle bar 22 and a lower needle bar 23arranged in alignment are convso Anected by pin-and-slot connections,respectively,

with the arms 19 and 20 whereby to convert the oscillatory motion of thearms into a rectilinear -inotion of the needle bars. Each needle bar ismade as more clearly shown inv Fig. 11. The needle bars 22 and 23 areguided respectively in a pair of guides 24 and a pair of guides 24a.'I'he guides 24 are formed vby lugs on the sewing machine arm 12 and thesupport for the guides or lugs 24a will be specically describedhereinafter. The'parts of the needle bar are well known as well as thetype of needle carried by such needle bars and such parts will now bedescribed.

A double pointed needle 25 is provided, that is one havingV a point ateach end, between'which points is located the eye 26, at about themidlengthiof the needle.` A tapered cap 27 is screwed and the sameserves to confine a spring pressed shank 28, the spring being arrangedto abut the upper or lower end of the hollow needle barl so that it canexert its spring action upon the shank 28. Positioned on the outer endof the shank 28 is a cap or head 22a, and the opposite end of the shank28 is provided with spring jaws 29.

It will be understood by those skilled with this type of machine thatthe needle is alternately grasped by the jaws 29 of each needle bar.Briefly the action is such that as the oscillating arm 19 carries theneedle bar inwaldly toward the work, the nut Vor `head v22a will abutthe upper lug 'or stop 24 with the result that the needle is releasedfrom the upper needle bar, the needle being taken over by the lowerneedle bar in the same way that the upper needle bar does the same. fromthe lower needle bar is caused to rise and to remove the head 22a fromengagement with the stop 24, so that at the moment this occurs the jaws29 are caused to clutch the needle Aby reason of the spring in theneedle bar 22 being free to act to force the jaws into the tapered cap27. In other words, whenever the head 22a is out of engagement with thestop 24, the spring in the needle bar 22 is free to press the grippingjaws 29 into the tapering cap 27, thereby causing such -jaws to grip theneedle. the lower needle bar acts alternately therewith in the samemanner.

A presser foot 30 is provided which is operated by a lever 31 on themachine arm 12 which in turn is operated through the medium of a roller32 located on the lever 31, which roller rides over cam projections 33,34 carried by a part of the machine to be hereinafter described. Astationary plate 35 as shown in detail in Fig. l0 is mounted onftheupper end of a support 36 mounted on a part hereinafter described. Thisplate 35 is disposed horizontally in a plane parallel withthe planeoffeed of the work and is provided with a slot 37 forming a throat throughwhich the needle 25 may be caused to pass during the sewing operation.Plate 35 is furthermore provided with a guide rib 38 in which the throat37 is directly located. Such rib 38 extends in the direction of thefeed.

A stationary table top 39 is provided, the same having mounted thereupona pair of guide-rails 40 and a separate pair of guide-rails 41, therebeing a pair of rails at each side of the line along which the stitchingis performed by the machine. These guide-rails 40, d 41 are parallel andare adapted to guide a traveling material supporting platform 42,through the medium of anti-friction rollers 43 at each side edge of thetraveling platform. Said platform 42 is provided as more clearly shownin Figs. 3, 6 and 9 with' a longitudinal slot 44 which receives thelongitudinal rib 38 of the throat plate 35. The platform is centeredagainst lateral movement by being confined between guide rails 40 41 andis permitted to ltravel longitudinally when operated by the work feedingmechanism. The rib 38 provides a stationary support for the workimmediately around the needle, the upper surface of which is preferablyon a level with the top surface of the platform 42, so that the workwill not be gathered or drawn when the needle passes through the same. lc

' There is a profiled recess 45 in the platform 42, such recess beingbisected by the longitudinal slot 44. This recess is preferably profiledto accord with the shape of the piece of lining which is to be used insewing it onto neck-ties 46 of the four-in-hand type. as shown in Fig.7. The lining 47 is placed in the recess 45, and having been properlypositioned longitudinally with the direction of feed, the longitudinaledge portions of the The upper needle bar in taking the needle- Thespring of folded tie 46 are placed over onto the lining, there beingpreferably an intervening tape 48 between the tie and the lining, asshown in Fig. 7. Further explanations vin these connections will bemadelater on.

Referring to Figs. 1, 3 and 4 therefis mounted rigidly upon the powershaft 13 a large gearwheel 49 for the purpose hereinafter described.This gear-wheel is provided with an enlarged diskportion 50 on which thecams 33, 34 are located, which cams are for the purpose of operating thepresser foot 30. The disk portion 50 is provided in its forward facewith a cam or eccentric groove 51 which controls the operation of thefeeding mechanism. The feeding mechanism comprises an oscillatory lever52 having a pin 53 positioned in the cam groove 51, such lever beingmounted upon a bracket54 by means of a pivot 55 so located as to providetwo arms to said lever, one of which'carries the said cam pin 53. Thebracket 54 is fixed to the lower one of the stationary guide rails 41.The lower arm of the lever 52 is operatively connected with a link 57 bymeans of a pivot 58 at one end of said link. The upper arm of lever 52is connected with a link 59 by means of a pivot 60.

By means of the lever 52 the links or arms 57, 59 are caused toreciprocate alternately in opposite'directions for the purpose ofoperating the pawls of the pawl and ratchet mechanism more clearly shownin Figs. 1, 4 and 5. This mechanism comprises pawl carriers 61, 62 towhich the adjacent ends of the arms or links 57, 59 are pivoted. To thisend the pawl carriers 61, 62 are made of U-shape as in Fig. 3 and theends of the links 57, 59 project into the recesses formed by the shapeof said pawl carriers. These pawl carriers 61, 62 straddle a short guidebar 63 which is fixed to the lower bar of the guide rails 41. The pawlcarriers are so mounted upon the guide bar 63 as to be freely movablethereupon when operated by the links 57, 59. One of the carriers 61, 62is provided with a pawl 64 and the other carrier with a pawl 65. Thesepawls are in the shape of short stems, corresponding ends of which arebeveled in the same direction, and the beveled or toothed ends thereofare pushed outwardly through the intervention of helical springs 66coiled within the carriers 61, 62. The action of the springs 66 is tocause the beveled or toothed ends of the pawls to engage or take betweenthe ratchet teeth of a rack-bar 67. This rack-bar 67 is fixed to theunderside of the intermittently movable traveling platform 42 whichsupports the work.

It will be seen that the action of the cam 51 on the oscillating lever'52 is such as to alternately reciprocate the liks 57, 59 in oppositedirections and that the traveling platform 42 is moved to advance thework at each operative engagement of the pawls 64, 65. The arrangementand operation of the involved parts in this connection are such that asthe pawl 64 moves forwardly in operative engagement with the ratchetteeth of rack 67, the pawl is moved in opposite direction so asto idleover the ratchet teeth. When the pawl 65 is moving in reverse directionit isA bar 67, whereby to permit the traveling platform appear herefrom.

A slot 79 extending radially is formed in the to be moved back to normalposition after the completion of the sewing of each piece of work.

and to begin upon another piece of work. VSuch means may comprise a pullchain 68 or the' like which is operated in any suitable way.

Now referring to Figs. 3, 6, 7, 8 and 9, the means for engaging andholding the work will be described. An elongated gage bar 69 is providedwhich is arranged and mounted so as to extend longitudinally with thedirection of feed. This gage bar 69 is provided with a material engagingflange 70 (Fig. 9) which is provided withA prongs or sharp teeth 71.Hinges 72 are connected with the innermost edge of gage bar 69, suchhinges being xed to the inner edge portion of the travel-` ing platform42 as shown in Fig. 3. By swinging the gage bar down upon its hinges,its `prongs 71' will be caused to penetrate the neck-tie lining 47 andthe tape 48 thereover, thereby positively retaining them in position inthe recess 45. When the gage bar is so positioned, its flange 70constitutes the gage proper for the edges of the tie which are to besewed together. Transverse slots 73 are formed in the gage bar 69 andthrough these pass set-screws 74 which are adapted to screw into theadjacent leaves of the hinges 72, thereby to render the gage barlaterally adjustable so as to determine the distance of the meetingedges of the tieV fromthe line of stitching 'which is to be formed?Referring to Figs. 1, 3 and 9, the mechanism for engaging the loops asformed from the thread in stitching' and the drawing or pulling out ofthe free end portion of the thread, will now be described. A gear wheel75 meshing with the 4larger gear 49 heretofore referred to rotates atgreater speed with a counter-shaft 76 mounted in suitable bearings on abracket 77 and of `a circular stationary support 78, these parts beingmounted on the frame of the machine at points below the horizontal planeof the platform 42. This circular stationary member or support 78 ismade of large diameter for -`reasons as will circular stationary member78, such slot extend-` ing vertically and receiving within it the lowerneedle bar 23. The guide lugs 24a of said needle bar and which werebefore mentioned Vare lixed to one of the verticalwalls of the slot 79soas to guide the needle bar 23 vertically. A trainof gears 80, 81 and82 is mounted upon the front face of the circular stationary member 78,which is formed with a recess 83 to receive the same. The gear ismounted on the shaft 76 andfthe gear 82 is an intermediate gear betweengear 80 and gear 81 which is in the form Vof a toothed annulus or ringmounted so that it may be rotated upon a circular track disk 84 which isrigidly xed by means of screws 85 to the front face of the circularstationary member 7 8. A detail of this construction is shown in Fig. 2,vshowing A 'also ball bearings, 86, for the rotary element. It

will be seen that the axis of rotation of the gearv lannulus or ring 81is eccentric to the axis of the non the outer end of acarrierarm 88which is pivoted on a pivot 89 xed at the axis of the stationarycircular member 78. For operating the ann 88 and thethread puller 87, :abutton or block 90 is mounted so that it is slidable in a 1onfsloty91 ofsaid arm, said block being swiveled upon? a pivot stud 90a extendingfrom the front side of the toothed annulus or ring 81.

It will be seen that the turning of the toothed annulus 81 thereby beenabledto move the 8O threadpuller 87 in its circular path by acting torotate the arm 88 around its pivot 89. f

By the inclusion of a slidable connection betweenl the annulus or gear81 and the armz88. the thread puller'87 is caused to lmove more slowlywhen it is about to pull'1 or is flrst pulling the thread out from thework than when it is moving away from the work in entirely pullingoutthe thread. Therefore the fact is that the thread puller does not actwith such quickness in starting the pull -of the thread from the workwith a tendency to fray out the thread after'a number of pulls or with atendency to jerk and break the thread, but after the pull is started,the thread puller pulls faster when the danger is over. cically theaction of the illustrated thread puller is to pull.with graduallyincreasing speed from about the time that it rst engages with the fthread, and then the puller is returned toward' its thread pullingposition at a gradually decreas ing speed. Referring to Figs. `6, 12 and13, a notched thread securer 92\is shown which is mounted xedly on theleft hand or advancing end of the traveling work supporting platform42.A Prefer-v 125' The operation of the machine will now be vde- 11o,

scribed briefly, more particularly in connection with the sewing oflinings to neckties. The prodv. uct of the machine is shown in Fig. 1,9where it will be seen that the edges'of the folded over tie areconnected by a line of stitching which extends through the lining 4 7"and the intervening Atape 48 which is preferably employed. The machineproduces a sewn tie which as shown is Wrong-side out, but which has tobe turned or 'reversed so as to bring the lining and tape into the tieand form a finished tie constructed the .same as a hand made tie. Whenthe thread is secured at one end by the thread msecurer 92,V it isthreaded through the eye of the ieedle 25, said needle being held by theupper needle bar. The lining, 12'5l tape and tie are then placed inthei'rproper positions upon the traveling platform 42, with the edges ofthe folded over tie in contact with thev flange of the gage bar 69, theplatform 42'being over to the right to its starting position. The 130machine may now be started `and the traveling platform 42 carries thework to the left during the stitching, the .operator taking care thatthe tie is properly held up tow the gage bar. The feed of the travelingplatform 42 will be inter- 135 mittent during the stitching, .the saidfeed being controlled by the'cani 51- which through the 'mechanismpreviously described alternately operates the feed pawls 64, 65 andthese engage the teeth of the rack-bar 57 of thetraveling plat- 140form.

Theneedle 25 is passed through the work a1- ternately in appositedirections, thereby carrying the thread with it, the needle bars .actingin well known manner to successively engage and release the needle. Thesuccessive steps in the process of sewing are illustrated in Figs. f14'to 18 inclusive, which maybe considered in connection'with Fig. 9,these views also illus-'- trating the method of forming regular orsimi-` 150 Spe- 95jI larly sizedlloops from the free end portion of thethread at points below the work as the work advances. InA Fig. 14 theneedle is shown as hav ing passed through the work through the action ofthe upper needle bar and as having been grasped by the jaws of the lowerneedle bar 23. The thread T being held at one end at a point away fromthe needle, it is drawnthrough the fabric in the form of a loop L toreceive the pointed end of the thread puller 87 as it is moved around bythe mechanism previously described. In the extreme outward position theloop will present the appearance shown in brokenlines in Fig. 9, butjust as soon as the needle bar 23 moves upwardly for a short distance,the loop will be loosened into the full line position, shown in saidligure, at which time the thread puller 87 enters the loop L and as thethread puller is moving continuously it will promptly act to pull thefree portion of the thread out from the fabric as shown in Fig. 15. Thisloose portion is carried by the .thread puller upon the periphery of thecircular stationary member 78 as the puller moves rearwardly in its owncircle of movement. The upwardly reciprocating needle bar. 23 causes theneedle to pass through the work for the length of the stitch S, theneedle then beingv grasped by the jaws of the upper needle bar 22,carrying the thread with it and forming a loop L1, as shown in Fig. 16.The work is now advanced for the length of a second stitch S1 as theneedle is moved down through the work, such needle being grasped by thejaws of the lower needle bar 23 upon release from the upper needle bar,so that the thread is laid into the position substantially as shown inFig. 17.

f From Fig. 17 it will be seen that a loop L2 correspondingsubstantially in size with the previous loop L1 formed below thetraveling platform has been formed along the work and that the freeportion of the thread extends through it for the length of such stitchS1. At about this time the thread puller 87 comes into action andengages the loop L2 so as to pull out the free portion of the threadfrom the two points of the work through which it passes, therebyproducing the result shown in Fig. 18 where the remaining portion ofthethread is seen to be entirely free from the work and may hang as aloose end. As the stitching advances the formation of successivesimilarly sized loops and the sewing of the work are completed and themachine is stopped and the work, consisting in this instance of thestitched tie and lining, is removed from the machine. with the work eachtime the needle is passed through it, but is released therefrom for amoment, at the time when the work is being fed forward intermittently.

Obviously the invention is susceptible to a more or less widerange ofmodification which can be resorted to by those skilled in the artwithout departing from the spirit of the invention as defined in thescope of the appended claims.

What we claim as new, is-

. 1. In a sewing machine, the combination of alternately operatingneedle bars,'a needle, means to alternately connect the needle with eachneedlebar, a traveling work supporting platform having a longitudinalslot, a throat plate for the passage of the needle, and having a portionentering the slot, means for securing one end of a thread for theneedle, means for advancing the platform once for each stitch, and meansfor pulling the free portion of the thread out from Of course thepresser foot 30 engages` the work while the needle is held by one of theneedle bars.

2. In a sewing machine, the combination of alternately operating needlebars, a needle, means to alternately connect the-needle with each needlebar, a traveling work supporting platform having a longitudinal slot, athroat plate for the passage of the needle, and having a rib enteringthe slot, the throat being in the rib, means for securing one end of athread for the needle, means for advancing the platform once for eachstitch, and means'for pulling the free portion of the thread out fromthe work while the needle is vheld by one of the needle bars.

3.,In a sewing machine, the combination of alternately operating needlebars, a needle, means to alternately connect the needle with each needlebar, parallel guide rails, a traveling work supporting platform thereonhaving a longitudinal slot, a throat plate for the passage of theneedle,

and having a portion entering theslot, means' the thread out from thework while the needle is i held by one of the needle bars.

Ll. In a sewing machine, the combination of a needle operatingmechanism, a traveling necktie supporting platform, having `alongitudinal slot and a profiled recess bisected longitudinally by theslot, for receiving a formed lining for the tie, the needle passingthrough such slot, means for imparting a step by step advancing movementto the platform in a direction perpendicularly of the direction ofmovement of the needle and means for pulling a loose thread entirely outof the stitched tie and lining as the platform carrying them advances.

5. In a sewing machine, the combination of a needle operating mechanisma traveling neck-tie supporting platform, having a longitudinal slot anda pronledrecess bisected longitudinally by the slot, for receiving aformed lining for the tie, the needle passing through such slot, meansfor imparting a step by step advancing movement 'to the platform in adirection perpendicularly of the direction of movement of the needle, a

gage hingedly mounted on the platform to one side of and parallel withthe slot for determining the line of stitching along a line parallelywith the gage, and means for pulling a loose thread entirely out of thestitched tie and lining as the platform carrying them advances.A

6..In a sewing machine, the combination of a needle operating mechanism,a traveling neck-tie supporting platform, having a longitudinal slot anda profiled recess bisected longitudinally by .the slot, for receiving aformed lining for the tie, the needle. passing through such slot, aplate having a throat for the passage ofthe needle and a projectionentering such slot, and means for pulling a loose thread out of thestitched tie and lining as the platform advances;

7. In a sewing machine, thev combination of a needle operatingmechanism, a traveling work supporting platform having a longitudinalslot nately .with the other pawl to advance the platform.

8: In a sewing machine, the combination of a needle operating mechanism,a traveling work supporting platform, means timed with the needleoperating mechanism for intermittently advancing the platform, suchmeans including a pair of carriers movable to and from each other, apair of longitudinally movable outwardly urged stems guided in"eachcarrier, and terminated at their outer ends with pawl-teeth beveled inthe same direction, and a bar for moving the platform and havingelements engaged by the pawls, each of which pawls operates alternatelywith the other pawl to advancey the platform.

9. In a sewing machine, the combination of a l needle operatingmechanism, a `traveling work supporting platform, means timed with theneedle operating mechanism for intermittently advancing the platform,such means including a pair of carriers movable to and from each other,an oscillatory-lever having an intermediate pivot, an arm pivoted toeach of the carriers, the arms movable from the lever from oppositesides of its pivot, an outwardly urged pawl on each carrier, and a barfor moving the platform and having teeth engaged by the pawls, each .ofwhich pawls operates alternately with the other pawl to advance theplatform. i

10. In a sewing machine, the combination of a needle operatingmechanism, a longitudinally traveling work supporting platform, meanstimed with the needle operating mechanism for intermittently advancingthe platform, a gage movably mounted on the platform for the abutment ofone edge of one piece of the work with and along the lateral edge` ofthe'gage, and determining'the line of stitching, and means associatedwithl the gage and extending substantially from end to end thereof forpositively engaging and holding another piece of the work in positionfor stitching to such gage-abutting piece of work along such line.

a needle operating mechanism, means lindependent of the needle forpositively supporting one end of a loose thread having its free portionthreaded and freely passing through the needle,

such operating mechanism and needle adapted lsoA work, meanslocated/opposite tov such surface to' form loops `away from'one surfaceof the for engaging' such loops in succession as the work advances institching and for fully drawing out the free portion of the thread fromthe work,

{s uch lop engaging means, including a pivoted arm having at its freeend a pointed thread puller, and moved by the arm to and lfrom each loopas it is formed,the point of the puller enterfng the loop in reverseAdirection to the direction of feed of' the work, and a member acting onthe arm to cause the thread puller to move through a complete circle,and a member concentric with the puller and in the plane of the path ofmovement of \the' puller, for supporting the entirely free-portion ofthe thread when it is drawn out,

vthe machine being free from such loop engaging means fand such a.supporting member oppositel to the other surface of the work.l

12. In a sewing machine, the combination of a needle operatingmechanism, 4means for positively supporting one end of a loose threadhaving its free portion threaded through-the needle, such,4 operatingmechanism andiieedle adapted to form loops away from onelsurface of thework, and means for engaging such loops in succes- 11. In a sewingmachine, the combination off sion as the work advances in stitching andfor drawing out the free portion of the thread, such loop engagingmeans, including a pivoted arm having at its free end a thread puller,and moved by theI arm to and from each loop as it is formed, and meansforoperating and timing the thread puller and arm, including a train ofgears operable with the needle operating mechanism, one of the gearsbeing in the form of an annulus and the pivot 'of the arm being mountedat a stationary point within, the annular gear, and a member carried bythe annular gear and in traveling engagement with the arm, whereby tocause the thread puller to Imove through a complete circle.

13. Inv #sewing machine, the combination of alternately operating needlebars, a needle, means to alternately connect the needle with each needlebar, a traveling neck-tie platform having a longitudinal slot throughwhich the needle passes, and also having a profiled longitudinal recessbisected by the slot for receiving a formed lining for the tie, meansfor intermittently advancing the platform. for each stitch, a movablegage on the platform against which a folded portion of the tie isengaged for determining the line of stitching through the tie A andlining, the same provided with means for Aand pulling out the freeportion of the thread and drawing the thread away from the tie, andmeans for causing the puller to thus act.-

14. In a sewing machine, the combination of needle operating mechanism,a traveling necktie supporting platform, a presser foot, means to movethe presser foot alternately into and out of engagement with the tie,and means for im-' parting a step by step advancing movement to theplatform, one step for each stitch as the presser foot is released fromthe necktie, theplatform havinga longitudinal slot through which theneedle passes in its movements, and

.also having means for positioning a formedl tielining so as to coverand extend along the slot, l

lthe platform supporting the tie and lining across the slot.

15. 'In a sewing' machine, the combination of a needle operatingmechanism includingl alternately operating needle bars, a' needle, andmeans to alternately connect the needle with each needle bar, meanslocated at a point laterally away from the needle for positivelysupportng one end of a loose thread having its free end rtion threadedland freely .passing through the needle, such operating mechanism andneedle adapted to form successive stitches in a direction away from thepositive means and to form loops of substantially the same' size awayfrom one surface of the' work and directed toward one of the needlelbars, and means for engaging such loops in succession, and while theneedle is held by such needle bar, as the work advances in stitching andfor entirely drawing out from the work the free end portion of kthethread, such' tively supporting one end of a loose thread havingits'free end portion threaded through the needle, a longitudinallytraveling work supporting platform, such operating mechanism and needleadapted to form successive stitcher as the platform moves along with thework in a direction away from the positive means and to form similarlysized loops away from one surface ofthe work, and means for engagingsuch, loops in succession as the work advances in stitching and forentirely drawing out the free end portion of the thread, such loopengaging means including an annularly movable thread puller and meansoperable on the puller to move it through such annular path.

17. In a sewing machine, the combination of a needle operatingmechanism, a traveling necktie supporting platform, having alongitudinal slot and a profiled recess in one surface bisectedlongitudinally by the slot, for receiving a formed lining for the tie,the needle passing through the slot, a plate fixed adjacent theopposite'surface of the platform and having a throat for the passage ofthe needle, and means for pulling a loose end portion of a threadentirely out of the stitched tie and lining as the platform advances.

18. In a sewing machine, the combination of a needle operatingmechanism, a traveling necktie supporting platform, having alongitudinal slot and a profiled recess bisected longitudinally by theslot, for receiving a formed lining for the tie, the needle passingthrough such slot, means" at each edge of the platform for guiding thesame longitudinally across the path of the needle, a plate having athroat for the passage of the needle and a projection entering suchslot, and means between the edge guiding means of the platform forpulling a loose end portion of a thread entirely outy of the stitchedtie and lining as the platform advances.

19. In a sewing machine, the combination of alternately operating needlebars, a needle, means to alternately `connect the needle with eachneedle bar, a traveling necktie supporting platform having alongitudinal slot through which the needle passes, and also having aprofiled longitudinal recess intersected by the slot for receiving andpositioning a formed lining for the tie, means 'for intermittentlyadvancing the platform longitudinally for each stitch when a foldedlongitudinal portion of the tie is in proper position for stitching thetie and lining together along a line parallel with the slot and thedirection of movement of the platform, means on the platform forsecuring a loose thread having its free portion threaded and guidedthrough the needle, such needle and needle bars adapted to formsimilarly sized loops in the thread, a puller for engaging successiveloops and pulling them away from the lining and tie and pulling out theentirely free portion of the thread, and means for causing the puller tothus act.

20. In a sewing machine, the combination lof needle operating mechanism,a traveling work supporting platform, means for guiding the plat- 'formin a direction across the line of movement of the needle,` means formoving the platform with the work thereon forwardly step by step acrosssuch line, the platform having a throughslot extending in the samedirection as that of its forward movement and through which the needlepasses in its movements, means moving with the platform for securing oneend of a thread at a point away from the needle through which needle thethread is freely guided, whereby there is left a loose end portion ofthe thread free of the work, means for causing the needle in stitchingto form successive" similarly sized loops from such free end portion ofthe thread, in a direction away from the surface of the platform otherthan the surface opposite that on which the thread supporting means arelocated, as the platform advances, and means opposite such other surfaceof the platform for engaging such loops in succession andpulling thefree end portion of the thread entirely out from the work and throughthe slot as the platform advances.

2l. In a sewing machine, the combination of needle operating mechanism,a traveling work supporting platform, means for guiding the platform ina direction across the line of movement of the needle, means for movingthe platform with the work thereon forwardly step by step across suchline, the platform having a through-slot extending in the same directionas that of its forward movement and through which the needle passes inits movements, a thread securer upon one surface of the platform forsupporting one end of a thread which is guided freely through theneedle, whereby there is left a loose end portion of 'the thread free ofthe work, means for vcausing the needle in stitching to form successiveneedle operating mechanism, a traveling work Supporting platform, meansfor guiding the platform in a direction across the line of movement ofthe needle, means for moving the platform with the work on the uppersurface thereof forwardly step by step across such line, the'platformhaving a through-slot extending in the same direction as that of itsforward movement and through which the needle passes in itsmovements,'means moving with the platform for supporting one end of athread above such surface at a point away from the needle through whichneedle the thread is freely guided, whereby the needle is adapted topass doubled up portions of the thread successively-through the work andthe slot as it stitches, and there is left a loose end portion of thethread free of the work, means for causing they needle in stitching toform successive similarly sized loops from the doubled portions of suchfree end portion of the thread in a direction inwardly of the innersurface of the platform as the platform advancesand means opposite theinner surface for engaging such loops in succession and pulling the freeend portion of the thread entirely out from the work and through theslot as the platform advances.

n 23. In a sewing machine, the combination of needle operatingmechanism, a traveling work supporting platform, means for guiding theplatform in a direction across the line of movement of the needle, meansfor moving the platform with the work on the upper surface thereofkforwardly step by step across such line, the platform having athrough-slot extending in the same direction a"s that of its forwardmovement and through which the needle passes in its movements, a threadsecurer upon such upper surface at the front end of the platform forsupporting one end of a thread whichv is guided freely through theneedle,whereby there is left a loose end portion of the threadfree ofthe work, means for causing the .needle to form after alternate stitchessuccessive similarly sized loops from such free end portion of thethread inwardly of the inner surface of the platform as the platformadvances and as the stitching proceeds in a direction away from thethread securer, and means for engaging such loops in succession andpulling the free end'portion of the thread entirely out from the workand through the slot as the platform advances.

24. In a sewing machine, the combination of a needle operatingmechanism, means for positively supporting one end of a loose threadhaving its free end portion guided freely through the needle, suchoperating mechanism and needle adapted to form stitches in the work andsimilarly sized loops in a direction away from one surface of the work,a thread-puller for engaging such loops in succession as the stitchingproceeds and for drawing out the end portion and freeing it entirelyfrom the work, and means moving the thread-puller at less speed as itengages each loop of thread than the speed at which it pulls out andfrees the end portion ofthe thread from the work.

25. In a sewing machine, the combination of a needle operatingmechanism, means for positively supporting one end of a loose threadhaving its free end portion guided freely through the needle, suchoperating mechanism and needle adapted to form stitches in the work andsimilarly sized loops in a direction away from one surface of the work,a thread-puller for engaging such loops in succession as the stitchingproceeds and for drawing out the end portion and freeing it entirelyfrom the work, .means for guiding the thread-puller in an annular path,and means moving the thread-puller through its path at an increasingspeed as it pulls out each loop and disengages the end portion of thethread from the work and at a decreasing speed when it is approachingand about to engage each loop.

26. In a sewing machine, the combination of a needle operating mechanismincluding alternately operating needle bars, a needle, and means toalternately connect the needle with each needle bar, means forpositively supporting one end of a loose thread having its free endportion guided freely through the needle, such operating mechanism andneedle adapted to form stitches in the work and similarly sized loops ina direction away from one surface of the work, a thread-puller forengaging such loops in succession as the stitching proceeds and fordrawing out the end portion and freeing it entirely from the work, andmeans moving the thread-puller at less speed as it engages'each loop ofthread than the speed at which it pulls out and frees the end portion ofthe thread from the work.

27. In a sewing machine, the combination of a needle operating mechanismincluding alternately operating needle bars, a needle, and means toalternately connect the needle with each needle bar, means forpositively supporting one end of a loose thread having its free endportion guided freely through the needle, such operating mechanism andneedle adapted to form stitches in the work and similarly sized loops ina direction away from one surface of the work, a. threadpuller forengaging such loops in succession as the stitching proceeds and fordrawing out the end portion and freeing it entirely from the work,

means for guiding the thread-puller in an annular path, and means movingthe thread-puller through its path at an increasing speed as it i pullsout each loop and disengages the end portion of the thread from the workand at a decreasing speed when it is approaching and about to engageeach loop.

VALENTINE NAFTALI. HENRY NAFTALI. RUDOLF NAFTALI.

